Chapter 1
Introduction to Textile
? Objectives:
1,To provide an overview of the importance of textiles in world
history and in the United States (and Chinese) economy.
2,To describe the primary textile markets.
? Key Words:
fabric primary textile markets yarn
fiber textile
? Glossary of Textile Terms
pile rug 绒头地毯 garment（一件）衣服，外衣，外表
flying shuttle 飞梭 spinning jenny詹尼多轴纺纱机
drafting roller 牵伸罗拉 spinning mule走锭细纱机
power loom 力织机 tufted carpet 簇绒地毯
MFA 多种纤维协定 GATT 关贸总协定
? textile
Generally,any product made from fibers of spinnable length,
More specifically,
(1) Staple fibers or filaments that are suitable for
conversion into nonwoven fabric or yarns for the
preparation of woven or knitted fabric.
(2) Yarns made from natural or manmade fiber,
(3) A fabric made from fibers and yarns,
(4) An end-use article,produced from fibers,yarns,or
fabrics,that retains the flexibility and drape of the
original yarn or fabric.
A unit,either natural or manmade,
that serves as the basic element,or
“building block”,of fabrics and other
textile structures,Most fibers are
characterized by having a length at
least 100 times their diameter,
Short fibers that are measured in
inches or fractions of inches (or
centimeters),as opposed to
meters or yards,A fiber strand of continuous
length,
A continuous strand of staple or
filament textile fibers in a form
suitable for knitting,weaving,or
other methods of intertwining,
interlacing,interlooping,or
entangling to form a fabric.
A planar structure consisting of
yarns or fibers.
Primary textile markets
textile
industrial
domestic
apparel
Which category are protective clothing and military uniforms
belonged to?
Which category are carpets and floor coverings belonged to?
Industrial Development
8000 B.C,flax was used by the Swiss Lake Dwellers
Flax fabric of 4000
B.C,
HuNan Province
Before 4000 B.C,Silk was used in China.Silk fabric of 2700 B.C.
Zhejiang Province
Between 3500 to 3000 B.C,Cotton fiber and fabrics were used in
India and Peru.A cotton blanket used in Song Dynasty,Zhejiang
Province
About 2000 B.C,Domesticated sheep were raised in Mesopotamia.
A
w
o
o
l
f
a
b
r
i
Manufactured by hand before 500 B.C,in China
Machine done by hand before the 18th century of the
Industrial Revolution
Intensive industrialization after Industrial Revolution(1770-1850)
Flying shuttle 1733 John kay
Spinning jenny 1767 James Hargreaves
Water-powered spinning machine 1772 Richard Arkwright
Spinning mule 1779 Samuel Crompton
Power loom 1780 Edmund Cartwrigt
Economical development
The Great Silk Road the 2nd century B.C,to the 9th century A.D.
By the 12th century,England was a major exporter of wool
After A.D,1500,India was a major exporter of dyed and cotton
fabric of Europe
After Industrial Revolution,the textile and apparel industries
developed in Europe.
In the 1940s and 1950s,the industry was consolidated.
Now,the traditional industry is changing from labor-intensive to
automation.
Textile market (I)
Textile market (II)
Fiber consumption in the United States
(pound,per capita)
24
1.2
39.3
2.2
cotton wool manufactured fiber other
Textile market (III)
A comparison of fiber outputs by China and the whole World
(unit,billion tons) 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000
w o rl d 94 1 4 9, 2 2 1 1, 7 2 9 6, 3 3 8 2, 7 510
Ch i n a 7, 5 1 2, 1 25 3 4, 7 72 120
w o rl d 1 6, 8 3 3, 1 8 3, 8 1 3 7, 3 1 7 6, 5 275
Ch i n a 0 0, 1 1 4, 5 1 6, 5 69
w o rl d 6 6, 5 1 0 1, 1 1 1 7, 8 1 3 9, 9 1 8 7, 1 198
Ch i n a 7 1 0, 6 2 2, 8 2 7, 1 4 4, 2 4 4, 2
f i b er o u t p u t s
m an m ad e f i b er
o u t p u t s
co t t o n o u t p u t s
Textile market (IV)
A comparison of labor cost of major area in the world
(unit,dollar / labor,hour)
Area 1996 1998 2000
Japan 24.31 20.70 26.10
Italy 16.65 15.81 14.71
America 12.26 12.97 14.24
Taiwan 6.38 5.85 7.23
Hong Kong 4.90 5.65 6.10
Korea 5.65 3.63 5.32
Turkey 2.02 2.48 2.69
Thailand 1.56 1.09 1.18
China 0.58 0.62 0.69
India 0.56 0.60 0.58
Pakistan 0.43 0.40 0.37
Indonesia 0.52 0.24 0.32
Textile market (V)
Proportion of export by China to the whole world
(unit,billion dollars)
Year Export by the world
Export by China
Sum Proportion to the world
1990 218.9 14.6 6.4
1995 307.7 37.9 12.3
1996 338.1 37.1 11.0
1997 360.4 45.6 12.7
1998 334.6 42.9 12.8
1999 333.9 43.1 12.9
2000 356.0 52.2 14.6
The U.S,textile industry has sought to improve
its competitive position with positive action,
rather than by relying on import restrictions to
increase sales of American-made goods.
How about China?
Study questions
1.What are textiles?
2.What are the major textile markets?
Activities
Visit some stores and examine textile labels,
Notice the difference in label information on
apparel versus upholstered furniture.
PART I FIBERS
Before 1900,only natural fibers and artificial silk
or rayon
Before 1940,basic textile textbooks contained
little information about fibers.
Today fibers have proliferated,and the differences
in their properties are important in determining
the end-use performance of textile products.
CHAPTER 2
? Objectives:
1,To describe the criteria used to classify fibers and to
differentiate between staple and filament fiber forms.
2,To explain the scope of the Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act and the difference between generic
names and trademarks.
? Key Words:
filament natural fiber trademark generic name
staple fiber WPL manmade fiber TFPIA
? Technical Term
bast fiber 韧皮纤维 asbestos 石棉纤维
alpaca 阿尔帕卡，羊驼 angora 安哥拉山羊毛
cashmere 山羊绒，开士米 mohair 马海毛
tussah silk 柞蚕丝 vicuna 骆马绒
flax (linen) 亚麻 hemp 大麻
jute 黄麻 kapok 木棉
ramie 苎麻 sisal 剑麻
WPL 羊毛产品标签法 artificial silk 人造丝
rayon 人造丝，人造纤维 Bemberg 本伯格铜铵丝
nylon 尼龙 Dacron 大可纶，涤纶
Acrilan 阿克利纶 saran 莎纶
vinyon 维荣 modal 莫代尔
spandex斯潘德克斯弹性纤维 hosiery 针织品，袜类
TFPIA Abbreviation for the Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act that defines generic names of fibers
and their use,It was passed by congress in 1958 and
took effect in 1960.
Fibers
Natural fibers
Manufactured fibers
Fibers obtained in usable
form directly from animals,
vegetables,or minerals,
Fibers,such as rayon,nylon,
and polyester,produced by
chemical reactions that are
controlled by people,as
opposed to fibers that occur
naturally,such as cotton,
wool,and silk.
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers
animal
Plant or vegetable
mineral
protein
cellulosic
asbestos
Classification of Natural Fibers
Animal/Protein Fibers Plant/Cellulosic Fibers Mineral Fibers
alpaca cotton asbestos
angora flax (linen)
cashmere hemp
mohair jute
silk kapok
tussah silk ramie
vicuna sisal
Manufactured fibers
2,The proposed new generic classification must be of
importance to consumers at large,not merely to a small
group of professionals.
3,The fiber must be in active commercial development.
Three conditions must be met before a group may be
added:
1,The proposed fiber must have a chemical constitution
radically different from those currently listed; and that
chemical constitution must produce significantly different
physical properties,
Generic name
The group of all fibers that share a common chemical
composition; can include several that are competitive
in the marketplace and are protected by different
tradem rk registrations.
Generic Names Specified by the TFPIA
acetate azlon modacrylic olefin rubber triacetate
acrylic glass novoloid PBI saran vinal
anidex lastrile nylon polyester spandex vinyon
aramid metallic nytril rayon sulfar lyocell
Other companies
Trademarks
Du Pont
Nylon
Dacron
Remember,
The generic name for a fiber is established by
law and only those fibers that match the
chemical description may be labeled or
advertised with that name.
However,one company can use the same trade
name for all of its’ goods.
trademark A word,letter,device,or symbol used in
connection with merchandise and alluding to the origin or
ownership of the product to which it is applied.
trade name A name given by a manufacturer or merchant
to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold by that
company alone,More accurately,it is called a trademark name
and may be protected as a trademark.
Miclon Polyester
Miclon polyester
MICLON POLYESTER
miclon Polyester
miclon polyester
miclon Polyester miclon POLYESTER
Polyester Miclon
polyester Miclon
Miclon polyester
Miclon polyesterMiclon polyester
Which one or ones are correct?
Other TFPIA Provisions
Fiber content
96 percent nylon,4 percent other fiber
The sequence is in
descending according to
the percentage
Both the generic
name and
percentage of it
Less than 5%
could be labeled
―other‖
96 percent nylon,4 percent spandex for strech
Given the purpose
of the fiber
Country of origin
Made in U.S.A.A product made entirely in the United States
A product imported from other country Made in Japan
A product made in the United States from an imported textile
Made in U.S.A,from imported fabric
These rules also apply to advertising and
catalog descriptions of textile products.
Other fiber classification terms
Manufactured fibers
Length of fibers
Manmade fibers
regenerated synthetic
Staple fibers
Filament fibers
Short fibers that are
measured in inches or
fractions of inches (or
centimeters),as opposed
to meters or yards,
A fiber strand of
continuous length,
Study questions
1.Discuss the major differences between natural
and manmade fibers.
2.What information is needed to classify a new
fiber?
3.Why does a company develop a trade mark for
a fiber?
Activities
Collect advertisements or labels for clothing and
home furnishings,What information about
textiles is included? Are there any parts of the
ads and the labels that you believe are incorrect?
Rewrite some of the advertisements or labels to
improve their information on textile products.
CHAPTER 3 Fiber Properties
? Objectives:
To describe primary and secondary properties of
fibers and their relationships to end-use
performance.
? Key Words:
tenacity decitex moisture regain tex
denier thermal properties density
morphology wicking hydrophilic
yield point
? Glossary of Technical Term
polymer 聚合体 length-to-width ratio长径比
strength 强度 flexibility 可挠曲性
cohesiveness 粘结性，内聚性 uniformity 均匀度，整齐度
mass 质量 fineness 细度
luster 光泽度 color 色彩
moisture absorption 吸湿性 elongation 伸长
elastic recovery 弹性回复 resiliency 弹性变形；弹力
thermal properties热学性能 abrasion resistance 耐磨性
specimen 试样，样品 tensile strength拉伸强力，断裂强力
tenacity 强度（单位细度的强力） specific stress 比应力
breaking load 断裂负荷 linear density 线密度
denier 旦尼尔 tex 特克斯
pliability 可挠性，柔韧性 spinning quality 纺纱性能
scale 鳞片（毛） merge number纺纱批号
run 一次连续生产总长 lot 批，批量，组
specific gravity比重 flammability 可燃性
Micronaire fineness 马克隆尼细度（气流仪细度） wicking芯吸
yield point 屈服点 morphology 形态学
decitex 分特 polypropylene聚丙烯
hydrophobic 拒水的 hydrophilic 亲水的
moisture content含水量，含水率 moisture regain回潮率
commercial moisture regain 商业公定回潮率
Saturation regain 饱和回潮率 stress-strain curve应力应变曲线
modulus 模数，模量
glass transition temperature 玻璃化转变点
melting point 熔点 flex abrasion 曲磨，挠曲磨损
flat abrasion 平面磨损 actinic degradation 光化递解
at a competitive price
Primary fiber properties
length to width ratio
strength
flexibility
cohesiveness
uniformity Required for manufacturing
or processing the fiber into
yarn or fabric.
fiber properties
Secondary
Fiber
properties
color mass
recovery
moisture absorption
luster
fineness elongation
resiliency
thermal property
abrasion resistance
Influence
consumer to
select and affect
processing
costs
production and processing of a fiber
price
the consumer is willing to pay
Primary properties
Length to width ratio (L/W)
affect processing
affect flexible
A minimum ratio of 100 is thought to be
essential,and most fibers have much higher
ratios.
Fibers shorter than 1.3 cm are seldom used in
yarn manufacturing.
Strength
to withstand processing and provide the desired
durability in its end use.
ASTM Acronym for the American Society for
Testing and Materials; most textile standards in
ASTM are developed by Committee D-13.
strength
Tensile Strength
Tenacity
The maximum tensile stress required
to rupture a fiber,expressed as
pounds per square inch or grams per
square centimeter
The tensile strength of a fiber,expressed
as force per unit of linear density of an
unstrained specimen,It is usually
expressed in grams per denier or grams per
tex.
Tensile Strength
1,What is the breaking load?
2,Why does the comparison be made based on
the cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen
when comparing the breaking strength of different
materials?
3,What are the units for expressing the tensile
strength?
psi—pound-force per square inch
gf/mm2—gram-force per square millimeter
4,Why the tensile strength is not used widely in
the practice?
Tenacity
Linear density
denier
tex
Mass in grams of 9,000 meters of
material.
Mass in grams of 1,000 meters of
material.
Specific strength
g/d or gf/d—gram-force per denier
mN/t—millinewton per tex
flexibility pliability
The ability of a fiber to resist repeated bending or
bowing without rupture.
Required in the manufacture of a yarn or fabric.
Also important in end-use performance.
Cohesiveness Spinning quality
Made the fibers can adhere to each other.
Affects yarn fineness and evenness.
the surface contours of fibers
cotton fibers
wool fibers
manmade fibers
convolutions or twist
scales
produce coils,crimps or zigzag shapes
Unevenness of the fiber surfaces
Why cohesion is less important for filament fibers than for
staple fiber?
Uniformity
Made the fibers processed together with less difficulty.
manufactured fibers
natural fibers
Virtually identical in a run or lot
To combine or blend
Secondary Properties
Determine the end use
for a specific fiber
Affect the consumer’s
satisfaction with a product
manufacturers consumers
tradeoff
selection
morphology
The study of
form and shape
of a substance.
microscopic
macroscopic
length,color,luster,crimp
surface,cross-sectional shape
Mass
Used to describe the quantity of matter in a body.
Weight
Used to describe the force exerted on a body by gravity.
mass
Specific Gravity
Density
The mass per unit volume of a substance.
The ratio of the mass of a material to the
mass of an equal volume of water at 4℃,
Micronaire
Fineness
directly
indirectly
cotton fibers
A type of air-flow instrument which
expressed the fineness of material with
micronaire fineness.
In general,the M of cotton fiber should between 4-5,
The larger the M is,the thicker the fiber,Yarn Size wool fibers
In China,quality number is usually used as the expression
for fineness of wool fiber,Linear Density all kinds of fibers
denier
tex
decitex
When comparing the fineness of same fibers with the same
density using the denier system (or tex system),it can be
assumed that the fiber with the lower denier (or tex) is the
finer fiber.
When comparing the fineness of fibers with different density,
it is possible to calculate the approximate cross-sectional area
of the fibers by knowing their denier (or tex) and its density.
)0 0 0,9 0 0( d e n s it y
d e n ie ra r e a
??
It is unwise to compare deniers directly because most fibers
are quite dissimilar in density.
Luster
light the surface of the fiber reflect
luster
The gloss,sheen,or shine of any surface.
Smooth surfaces
reflect light back to
their sources and
appear shiny.
Irregular surfaces
reflect light in a
scattered,random
manner and appear dull.
chemical orientation
amorphous
crystalline luster
duller
Color
wool Off-white,tan,brown,gray,black
cotton white,cream,green,taupe
bast fibers tan to brown
manmade fibers white or off-white,
dark gold,brown,black
%1 0 0% ??? ow dwowmc
Moisture Absorption
fibers
hydrophobic
hydrophilic Water loving; having a high
affinity for moisture by either
absorption or adsorption.
Water fearing or hating; having
a low degree of moisture
absorption or adsorption.
How to determine the amount of water in fibers?
weighing oven drying reweighing
conditioned atmosphere 70± 2° F(20± 2℃ ),
65± 2 percent relative humidity
wet weight dry weight
moisture regainmoisture contentThe moisture in a textile material,
determined under prescribed
conditions and expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the
moisture-free specimen,%1 0 0% ?
??
dw
dwowmr
The water or moisture in a textile
material,determined under prescribed
conditions and expressed as a
percentage of the combined mass of
fiber and moisture
absorption
adsorption
The attraction and retention of gases or
liquids within the pores of a fiber; also,
the retention of moisture between fibers
within yarns and between fibers or yarns
within fabrics.
The attraction of gases,liquids,or solids
on the surface of fibers,yarn,or fabric,
wicking The property of a fiber that allows
moisture to move rapidly along the fiber
surface and pass quickly through the
fabric.
The moisture absorbency of a fiber can affect its comfort,How
to increase the comfort of the consumer?
Elongation and Recovery
FFelongation The amount of stretch or extension that a
fiber,yarn,or fabric will accept.
percent elongation The ratio of the extension of a material to
the length of the material prior to
stretching.
original length
extended length
100)(% ??? l e n g t ho r i g i n a l l e n g t ho r i g i n a ll e n g t he x t e n d e de l o n g a t i o n
Stress-Strain Curve
The elongation
expressed as a fraction
or percentage of the
original specimen length.
Graphic representation of the relationship between the
change of a specimen’s length in the direction of applied
stress and the magnitude of the stress causing the
deformation,In most textile curves,stress is calculated in
terms of linear density.
The resistance to
deformation,usually
expressed in terms of
g/d or N/tex
The ratio of change in stress to change in strain is
called a modulus,Modulus is the resistance to stretch
r elongatio,
Elastic recovery The ability of a fiber,yarn,or fabric to return
to its original length after elongating tension is released.
Why are the lower levels not higher levels of extension used in
report elastic recovery?
That poi t on a stress-strain curve
diagram of a fiber at which the curve
departs from its original straight-line
form; that point at which the material
is no longer elastic.
Resiliency
The ability of a fiber or fabric to recover from a deformed
state– that is,return to its original shape after flexing,
compressing,stretching,twisting,or other deformation.
Thermal Properties
Characteristics of material pertaining to using,or caused
by heat; includes,but is not limited to char,melting,and
ignition points.
thermoplastic Capable of becoming soft or moldable on
application of heat.
temperature
ignition temperature
glass transition temperature (Tg)
melting point (Tm)
safe ironing temperature
For
thermoplastic
glass transition temperature (Tg)
The point at which the amorphous regions of a fiber
develop flow,but the material retains its basic fiber form.
The material becomes pliable,may be
reformed or shaped,and will maintain
the new form until the fiber is again
heated to the same temperature.
melting point (Tm)
The point at which the material begins to lose its shape or
form and becomes molten or liquefies.
Permanent fiber damage
textured yarns and permanent pleats
flammability
Consumer Products Safety Commission
Flammable Fabrics Act
Specific standards
apparel textiles,
carpets and rugs,
children’s sleepwear,
and mattresses and
mattress pads.
Abrasion Resistance
abrasion
yarn and fabric
construction
fiber properties
finishing
techniques
determine
flex abrasion flat or plane abrasion
Miscellaneous Properties
Chemical and biological resistance actinic degradationRelationship of Fiber Properties to Performance.
biological resistance
chemical resistance
thermal behavior
abrasion resistanceelasticityflexibilitydye affinity
chemical resistancecohesivenessstatic generationresilience
absorbencyflexibilityabsorbencyabrasion resistance
resiliencetenacityelasticityluster
tenacityabrasion resistancedensitycolor
MaintenanceDurabilityComfortAppearance
Study questions
1.What are primary fiber properties,and why are
they important?
2.What are secondary fiber properties,and how
do they relate to consumer satisfaction with
textile products?
3.Explain what is meant by the stress-strain
properties of a fiber.
4.What is meant by the term fiber morphology?
Activities
Start your own chart of the physical properties of fibers.
CHAPTER 4
Natural Protein Fiber
? Objectives:
1.To list and describe the properties of the two major
protein fibers,and familiar with some specialty hair
fibers.
2.To identify the differences between wool and silk.
3.To identify the legislation that applies to wool and silk.
? Key Words:
fibroin sericin throwing
keratin virgin wool silk
protein fiber wool specialty fibers
? Glossary of Technical Terms
amino acid 氨基酸 protein fiber 蛋白质纤维
fleece 羊毛 (尤指未剪下的 ) pupal 蛹的
Merino sheep 美利奴绵羊 epidermis 表皮
cuticle 表皮 cortical cell 皮层细胞
cortex 皮质 ortho-cortical 正皮质 (层 )，正外皮
para- cortical 偏皮质 medulla 毛髓
pigment 色素 fibrilla 原纤维
endocuticle 内表皮层 exocuticle 外表皮层，外角质层
epicuticle 鳞片表层 crush 变形
crease 折皱 hygroscopic 吸湿的
blot up 吸干 outerwear 外衣，外套
dimensional stability 尺寸稳定性 felting 毡合
relaxation shrinkage松驰回缩 sponging 润湿预缩
degradative finish降解整理 dylan process迪兰 (毛织物 )聚合物防缩
法
pretreatment 预处理 Sanforlan process 桑福伦整理
wet chlorination process湿氯防缩整理 bone-dry 极干燥的
self-extinguish自动灭火 disintegrate (使 )分解
pungent odor 刺激性气味 stiff 僵硬的，僵直的
discompose 分解 carbonize 使成碳，碳化
alkali 碱，碱性的 dissolve 溶解
prolong 伸长 cystine 胱氨酸
moth 蛀虫 mildew 霉，霉菌
pest 害虫，有害物 IWS 国际羊毛咨询处
overall 外衣，罩衫，工装裤 woolen 毛织物
worsted 精纺毛织物 pelt 毛皮
protein fibers
Fibers composed of amino acids in various
configurations,from natural sources such as
wool or silk or from manmade sources such
as the azlons.
specialty fibers
Traditionally,hair and fibers from animals other
than sheep,Also used to designate manmade fibers
developed for specialized end uses.
wool
A fine fiber (hair) obtained from sheep,In labeling,
the term wool also may be used to identify fibers
from other fleece animals,such as the Angora goat,
cashmere goat,camel,alpaca,llama,and vicuna.
silk
A fine,strong,continuous filament formed by the
silkworm during the construction of a cocoon; also
refers to the filament extruded by spiders other than
silkworms.
provide warmth,a pleasant hand,attractive
appearance,good absorbency,and resiliency.
lustrous appearance and unique hand.
Wool
Wool Production from Sheep
Merino sheep small diameter,the standard against which other fibers are
judged.
slightly coarser than Merino woolDelaine Rambouillet
Cheviot
Columbia
Corriedale
Montadale
Panama
Produce medium fineness fibers
Navaho
Costwold
lincoln
Romney
Produce coarse fibers
The diameters of wool fibers are from 18mm to 40mm
Properties
The fiber is cylindrical.morphology
scale
epidermis
or cuticle
cortex
Make up about 90% of the
fiber mass and consist of
fibrils.
Medulla may not be visible in wool fiber,It
allows nutrients to reach the fiber during its
growth phase and contains the pigment that
gives fibers their color.
stress-strain relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
dry—1.0 to 1.7 g/d
wet—0.7 to 1.5 g/dweak
Care is taken to
compensate for the
inherent weakness.
At the break ranges from 20 to 40%.
Wet elongation may exceed 70%.
After 2% elongation has 99% recovery;
After 10% elongation has over 50%
recovery.
excellent Durable for apparel and home furnishings.
Recovers readily from crushing or creasing.exceptionally
allows durable crease
or pleats to be
pressed into the fabric.unique structure
density
Fiber Density(g/cm3) Commercial Regain (%) Dry Tenacity (g/d) Breaking Elongation (%)
cotton 1.54 7.00 3.0 3.0-10
linen 1.50 8.75 6.0 2.5-3
silk 1.25 11.00 2.4 10-25
wool 1.30 13.60 1.0 20-40
acetate 1.30 6.50 1.2 25
nylon 1.14 4.50 4.3 19
olefin 0.90 0.00 3.5 15
polyester 1.38 0.40 3.0 20
rayon 1.50 11.00 2.4 20
spandex 1.20 1.30 0.5 700
Wool fibers are among the heavier fibers.
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain of 13.6 to 16.0%
Wool is a very hygroscopic fiber.
Saturation moisture regain more than 29%.
when absorbs moisture wool produces heat
a comfortable fiber to wear in cold,
damp climates.
Wool has some hydrophobic characteristics.
initial absorption is slow
Protecting wearers from the elements.
dimensional stability
relaxation shrinkage
felting shrinkage
a reversible reaction
sponging Application of water to wool fabric,
followed by drying with heat,to produce
shrinkage,Sometimes called ―London
shrunk‖ fabric.
Relaxation shrinkage ensures that the product will not
exhibit excessive shrinkage under normal conditions of
use and care.
an irreversible reaction
Felting shrinkage produces certain types of compact,
thick wool fabrics from knitted or woven structures,and
also makes it possible to produce the fabric known as
felt directly from wool fibers.
shrink-resistant finishes
to reduce or eliminate felting properties of wool
be important in developing washable wool fabrics.
degradative finishes
polymer deposition finishes
alter the cuticle of scales of the wool
Coat the structure and prevent scale interlocking.
Why does shrinking occur?
thermal properties
In the presence of a flame the fiber burns slowly.
Most wool fibers in normal use contain enough moisture to
make them self-extinguishing.
Burning wool produces pungent odor.
The residue from burning is a brittle,black bead that crushed
when squeezed.
When heated in boiling water for an extended period,the fiber
becomes weak and somewhat stiff.
At dry temperatures above 130℃,it slowly decomposes and
turns yellow; at temperatures greater than 300℃,chars and
disintegrates.
chemical properties
dilute acid resistant Dilute sulfuric acid are used in processing
concentrated
mineral acid decomposed
alkalies
Keratin is very
sensitive to it
organic
solvents resistant
Used in cleaning and
stain removal do not
damage wool fibers.
other properties
effect of sunlight Prolonged exposure to sunlight,the ultraviolet rays break the molecule
The fiber is degraded and can be
destroyed after long outdoor exposure.
effect of insects
Carpet beetles and the larvae of some
moths are attracted to wool as food
source.
Has some resistance to bacteria and
mildew.
End Use
Used primarily in apparel and home furnishing.
positive properties
negative properties
Naturally crease-resistant,flexible,elastic,absorbent,
and warm.
The difficulties encountered in laundering and the
allergic reactions of some individuals to the fiber.
IWS International Wool Secretariat
Wool Bureau
Woolmark
Woolblend Mark
A licensed symbol issued by the Wool Bureau for
products containing 100% wool,Products so labeled
must pass a stringent series of tests to use this symbol.
A licensed symbol issued by the Wool Bureau for
products containing at least 60% wool plus other fiber,
Products so labeled must pass a stringent series of tests
in order to use this symbol.
two major types of wool fabrics
woolens
worsteds
Usually have a soft hand and a low bulk density.
Rougher coarser and thicker than worsteds.
Usually have a soft hand and a low bulk density.
Have a smooth and crisp hand.
Fur Products Labeling
1,What is fur?
2,What is used fur?
3,What is fur product?
4,What is waste fur?
The act requires that labels state the true English
name of the animal from which the fur was taken,
the country of origin,and information about
whether the fur product contains damaged,used or
scrap fur,Furs that have been pointed,dyed,
bleached or artificially colored must be labeled to
indicate such treatment.
reel 缫丝，丝框 cocoon 茧，蚕茧
unwound 退绕 filature 缫丝、缫丝机
guide 导丝器 hand-reeled silk手缫生丝，土丝
reeled silk 绞丝 throwing 捻丝
brin 单丝 thrown silk 加捻丝线
bave 茧丝 tram silk 纬丝
single silk 缫制的生丝 grenadine 紧捻丝线
ply yarn 合股线 crepe 绉丝，绉线
chiffon 雪纺绸，薄绢 degumming 脱胶
sericin 丝胶 gum 胶
waste silk 废丝 schappe silk 绢丝
weighted silk 加重丝绸 weighting 增重
weighting agent加重剂，增重剂 cultivated silk家蚕丝，桑蚕丝
Glossary of Technical Terms
tannin 丹宁酸，鞣酸 scorching 焦化
fibroin 丝心蛋白 scroop 丝鸣，绢鸣
chemise 女工无袖衬衣 suture 缝合线
necktie 领带 oriental rug 东方地毯
lining 衬里，衬料 organzine 经丝，加捻生丝
silk
Processing Silk
Reeling
cocoons hot water locate the ends
guide wound onto a reel
filature
reeled yarn
Why are several cocoons joined in a yarn?
throwing
The combining and twisting of filament fibers,both
silk and manmade.
thrown yarn
Singles yarn A simple yarn formed from a
single ply; it may be formed from short-staple
fibers with sufficient twist to hold together,a
single monofilament,or multiple filaments twisted
or untwisted.
tram silk A low-twist ply silk yarn formed
by combining two or three singles.
organzine Usually a silk yarn of two or m re plies,
first twisted as singles,then plied in the opposite
dir ction with a medium am unt of twist; used as
warp yarn.
grenadine A tightly t isted ply yarn co posed of
two r three twisted st ands (singles).
dugumming
The gum stiffens the silk filament and provides some protection
during processing.
Before final finishing,the sericin is removed by boiling the
fabric or yarn in water and soap.
Short lengths of silk fibers,produced as silk filaments,
that are reeled or processed; used in making rough,
textured spun yarns or in blends with cotton or wool,
Sometimes called silk noil.
Short staple silk
waste silk
Broken filaments
The short lengths of fiber at the end of the cocoon
The short fiber lengths of cocoons from which moths
have hatched
Pure Dye Silk Legislation
If the fiber contains more than 10% by weight of
weighting finish,the silk other than black silk
must be labeled as wighted silk.
If the fiber contains 10% or less by weight of
weighting finish,the silk must be labeled as
Pure Dye Silk.
Black silk fabrics may be labeled ―Pure Dye Silk‖
with up to 15% weighting.
Length,between 900 and 1200 meters,some exceed 2700 meters.
Fineness,a single brin is 9 to 11 micrometers in average width.
Properties
morphology
Length and Fineness
Color and Luster
Microscopic Features
Cultivated silk is more lustrous and lighter in color than tussah.
Cultivated silk fibers:
have been degummed -- look like smooth,transparent rods,
are not degummed-- have rough,irregular surface,
Tussah,quite even but is darker in color than cultivated silk,and
may have faint longitudinal striations.
Cross section,the shape of an isoceles triangle without inner
markings.
stress-strain relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
Dry tenacity is 2.4-5.1 g/d.
Wet tenacity is 2-4.3 g/d.
At break of dry fibers is 10-25%; of wet fibers is as high as 35%.
At 2% elongation,has 92% percent elongation recovery.
Average resiliency.
density
Between 1.25-1.34 g/cm3.
How to calculate the linear density of the fiber in denier if both
the density and the cross-sectional area of silk filament?
)0 0 0,9 0 0( d e n s it y
d e n ie ra r e a
??
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain is 11%.
Saturation regain is 25-35%.
thermal properties
Ignites and will continue to burn as long as a flame source is present.
Self-extinguishing has the odor of singed hair of feathers,and leaves
a crisp,brittle black ash.
Can not be affected when the temperatures below 135℃,
Rapid degradation when the temperatures above 177℃,
Safe ironing temperature is between 121-135℃,
Will be scorched when temperature above 150℃,
chemical properties
acids More susceptible to acid damage than wool
alkalies be damaged by alkalies
organic
solvents resistant
Used in cleaning and
spot removal
The chemical reactions of silk are similar to those of wool.
Organic acids do not damage silk and in fact are sometimes
used in finishing the fiber.
other properties
effect of sunlight
Accelerates the decomposition of silk.
Weighted silks are more susceptible to
damage from natural aging than are
unweighted silks.
effect of insects
Resistant to attack by mildew,moths,
and many bacteria and fungi
Attacked by rot-producing bacteria,
carpet beetles.
End Use
Used for luxury apparel,household textiles,and
medical sutures.
Silk apparel fabrics are available in a wide range
of weights and constructions.
Silk is used in fine drapery and upholstery fabrics.
Silk sutures still are used by some surgeons.
Study questions
1.What are the properties of silk and wool that
make them attractive to consumers?
2.What properties of wool are improved by
finishing?
3.What quick methods can be used to identify
wool and silk?
4.Why the sericin is removed until before final
finishing?
Compare the properties of wool and silk.
Activity
cashmere
camel hair
mohair
rabbit hair
spider silk
Merino sheep
Delaine
Rambouillet
Cheviot Columbia
Corriedale
Montadale
Panama
Navaho Cotswold
Lincoln Romney
CHAPTER 5
Natural Cellulosic Fibers
? Objectives:
1.To describe the characteristics of naturally occurring
cellulosic fibers,and relate them to the care and uses of
the fibers.
2.To explain the production and processing of natural
cellulosic fibers.
? Key Words:
bast fiber hemp cotton
jute scutching flax
ramie
? Glossary of Technical Terms
seed hair 籽纤维，种子纤维 fruit husk 果实纤维
plant stem 茎纤维 plant leaf 叶纤维
bast fiber 韧皮纤维 milkweed fiber马利筋属纤维
kapok 木棉 coir 椰子纤维
abaca 马尼拉麻 henequen 赫纳昆麻，剑麻
sisal 西沙尔麻，剑麻 palma 帕尔马丝兰属叶纤
维
pineapple 菠萝纤维 yucca 丝兰属叶纤维
gin 轧棉机 cotton lint 皮棉
linter 棉短绒 burlap 打包粗麻布
trash 杂质 mercerize 作丝光处理
Sea Island cotton海岛棉 uplands cotton陆地棉
mercerization丝光作用 lumen 中腔，腔管
elliptical 椭圆的 mercerized cotton丝光棉
fluffy 篷松的 deterioration 劣化
starch 浆，上浆 rinse 漂净
neutralize 中和 launder 洗涤
diaper 尿布 fungus 霉菌，真菌
silverfish 蠧虫 pillowcase 枕头套
slipcover 沙发套 braided rugs 编结地毯
pile rug 绒头地毯 repellency 抵抗性，排斥性
cellulosic fibers
Fibers composed of naturally occurring
cellulose,cellulose dissolved and regenerated
by chemical processing,or derivatives of
cellulose such as cellulose acetate,Examples
include cotton,flax,rayon,and jute.
Come from four plant parts:
plant stem
seed hair
fruit husk
bast fiber
plant leaf
cotton
Processing
seed cotton gin
cotton lint (ginned cotton)
linter
cotton bale (ginned bale)testgrade
length fineness color trash ginning preparation
Cotton fibers too short in
length for yarn or fabric
manufacturing,usually
declared waste.
Properties
morphology
Length
Fineness
very short-staple fiber less-than ? inch
short-staple fiber 13/16 -15/16 inch
medium-staple fiber 15/16 - 11/8 inch
extra long-staple fiber
11/8 - 13/8 inchordinary long-staple fiber
over 13/8 inch
between 12 to 20 micrometers.
Sea Island cotton have a mike of 1.28;
Upland cotton variety have a mike of 5.23.
Color and Luster
Microscopic Features
Color Varies.
mercerization Application of sodium hydroxide to
cotton yarn or fabric under tension,to improve the
luster and increase the affinity of the fiber for dyes,
In slack mercerization,without tension,the finish
imparts stretch properties.
Luster Naturally fairly dull.
longitudinal ribbonlike shape with convolutions at
irregular intervals.
cross section shows the outer cell wall,or cuticle;
the secondary wall with its layers of cellulose; the
lumen.
The central canal of a
natural cellulosic fiber,
usually cotton.
Stress-Strain Relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
Dry tenacity is 3.0-5.0 g/d.
Wet tenacity is 3.3-6.0 g/d.
Low resiliency.
At break of fibers is 3-7%; of slack mercerized fiber is as high as
10%.
At 2% elongation,has 75% percent elongation recovery.
density 1.54 g/cm3.
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain is 8.3%.
At 100% relative humidity the moisture regain is 25-27%.
Commercial moisture regain is 7.0%.
To mercerized cotton fiber:
Standard moisture regain is 10.3%.
Commercial moisture regain is 8.5%.
thermal properties
Burns readily and quickly.
Has the odor similar to that of burning paper,and leaves a small,
fluffy gray ash.
Can be gradually decomposed when long exposed to dry heat above
150℃,
Rapid deterioration when the temperatures above 246℃,
Safe ironing temperature is given as 204℃,
Starch increases the tendency of the fiber to scorch.
chemical properties
cold dilute acids
Degrade
alkalies
disintegration
organic
solvents resistant Used for stain removal
No affection
Strong and
hot dilute acids
highly resistance mercerization
other properties
effect of
sunlight
Will be eventually yellow and
degraded.
effect of
biological
The mildew fungus will grow on
cotton fibers especially under warm,
dark,damp conditions,Bacteria also
degrade the fiber.
Moths and carpet beetles do not
attack cotton,but silverfish do.
Unstarched?Starched?
End Use
Used widely in apparel,
home furnishings,and
industrial fabrics.
The Cotton Incorporated
cotton symbol has become
one of the most readily
recognized advertising
images.
How to improve dimensional stability of cotton fabrics?
Study questions
1.What are the major properties of cotton,and
what properties make the fiber particularly
attractive to consumers?
2.Explain how to process cotton linter.
3.What is the principle of mercerization?
4.Compare the properties of cotton and flax (use
table).
cotton
milkweed
kapok
coir
flax
flax
ramie
ramie
hemp
jute
abaca
henequen
sisal
palm
yucca
gin
roller gin
saw gin
linter test
Sea Island cotton Upland cotton
mercerized
cotton
cotton
apparel
domestic
PART II YARNS
whorl
spindle
Hand spinning
Spinning Wheel
Jersey wheel
treadle-operated wheel
CHAPTER 6 Yarn Properties
? Objectives:
1,To describe the differences between single and ply
yarns,and among yarns of varying sizes.
2,To discuss the properties associated with staple and
filament yarns.
3,To discuss the importance of the amount and direction
of twist in a yarn,and discuss the differences in yarn
properties that are associated with yarn construction.
? Key Words:
hank twist multiplier ply yarn
thread yarn number twist
? Glossary of Technical Terms
sewing thread 缝纫线 twine 麻线，绳子
cord 绳，索 thread 线
ply yarn 合股线 ply 纱线股数
monofilament 单纤，单纤丝 multifilament复丝，多纤维丝
novelty yarn 花式纱线 fancy yarn 花式纱线
hawser 粗绳，缆 cable 巨缆
numbering system 细度计量制 yarn number纱线支数
direct system 定长制 indirect system 定重制
yarn count 纱线支数 hank 绞
skein 绞纱 worsted count精纺毛纱支数
woolen run 粗纺毛纱纶 sheer 透明薄纱
twist 捻度，捻回 twist per inch 每英寸捻数
spinning frame细纱机 twist multiplier捻系数
torque 扭矩 kink 纠缠
snarl 缠结 twist setting定捻 (作用 )； (捻度 )定形
protrude 突出 knot 结头
evenness 均匀度 nep 棉结，白星，毛粒
slub 粗节，糙粒 core-spun yarn包芯纱
fiber
yarn
fabric
sewing thread
twine rope
combined yarn
Basic Terminology
yarn A continuous strand of staple or filament textile
fibers in a form suitable for knitting,weaving,or
other methods of intertwining,interlacing,
interlooping,or entangling to form a fabric.
yarn
for fabrics
not for fabrics
for weaving
for knitting
for nonweaving
cord yarn
rope
thread
A strong,high-grade yarn,usually ply,
textured,or core,of even surface for
sewing fabrics or for needlework.
spun yarn
twist together
wrapping together
bind together
A yarn produced from staple fibers.
yarn
singles yarn
ply yarn
A simple yarn formed from a single ply; it may
be formed from short-staple fibers with
sufficient twist to hold together,a single
monofilament,or multiple filaments twisted or
untwisted.
A yarn formed from two or more single strands.
A manmade fiber extruded as
a single fiber or filament.
A manmade fiber extruded as
multiple filaments or strands to
produce a yarn,which then may be
twisted,plied,or fused together.
ply yarn
cord yarn
complex yarn
Yarn composed of two or more piled yarns
twisted together,includes cable,hawser,
rope.
Yarn usually uneven in size,varied in color,
or modified in appearance by the presence
of irregularities deliberately produced
during manufacture,Also called fancy or
novelty yarn.
Perimeter higher than 10
inches; multiply thread.
Entwist from three threads
and each thread has 20 plies.
Twist from three or more plies and the
peri eter is not less than ? inch.
Yarn Size
yarn number
A measure of the fineness or size of a yarn expressed
as mass per unit length in direct yarn numbering
systems or as length per unit mass for indirect yarn
numbering systems; includes denier,decitex,and tex
direct systems; and cotton,worsted,and woolen
counts in the indirect system.
direct systems indirect systems
direct yarn numbering systems
denier system
tex system
9000 meters
1000 meters
The bigger the value is,the thicker the yarn.
How to acquire the yarn number of an appointed yarn?
measure the length
weigh the weight m e t e r sg r a m st e x 1 0 0 0??
Both ASTM and ISO have recommended the tex
system as the standard yarn numbering system.
indirect yarn numbering systems
cotton count
worsted count
840 yards
560 yards
The bigger the value is,the finer the yarn.
woolen run 1600 yards
The cotton,woolen,and worsted systems are
the three used most frequently in the United
States.
cotton count (Ne,cc)
hank A skein of yarn; a standard length of roving or yarn,
The length is usually specified by a yarn numbering system.
p o un d s
y a r d sc o un tt o n
?? 8 4 0c o t
worsted count
p o un d s
y a r d sc o un tw o r s t e d
?? 560
woolen run
Used for short-staple fiber as cotton,
retail cotton and cotton-blend
sewing threads.
Used for long-staple system,
Used for long-staple system,
designating ply
singles
x-ply
20/1 or 20s
40/X
Can we measure and weigh the ply yarn as a single yarn?
Yarn Twist
twist
The turns in a length of yarn; they may be clockwise (S)
or counterclockwise (Z).
The direction in which the fibers are twisted and the
amount of twist inserted affect the properties of yarns
and the products that can be made from the yarns.
strength luster abrasion resistance
hand absorbency flexibility
direction
S twist Z twist
A spindle
rotating
counter-
clockwise
produces
an S twist
A spindle
rotating
clockwise
produces
a Z twist
Most yarns spun on cotton systems have a Z twist.
amount turns per inch (tpi)
st
re
ng
th
tpi
optimum twist
Softer,more bulk,
and more weaker
Why after the optimum twist point,the strength of the
yarn will decrease?When spun shorter fiber,the more twist is required.
twist multiplier (TM)
Indicator of hardness of twist in a yarn; the quotient of
the twist expressed in turns per inch and the square
root of the yarn number in an indirect system.
Ne
t p iTM ?
cotton
knitting yarn
hard twist yarn
weaving yarn
filling yarn
warp yarn
2-3 TM
3-4 TM
4-5 TM
5-7 TM
Why these yarns can not have much higher TM?
How to compare the twist degree of the yarns with different fineness?Different fineness have diff rent effect w en add one
twist in the same length.
balanced yarn liveliness yarn
The twist is
such that the
yarn will
suspend in a
loop without
kinking,
doubling,or
twisting
upon itself.
The twist is
such that
the yarn will
untwist and
retwist on
itself,often
snarling or
kinking.
How to acquire tightly twisted yarn which need much more twist to
show special appearance?
Other Properties
durability
tensile strength
abrasion resistance
construction
fiber content
The maximum tensile stress required to rupture a
fiber,expressed as pounds per square inch or
grams per square centimeter
tenacity
What factors will affect the abrasion resistance of yarn?
tensile strength
abrasion resistance
Which one has higher strength,the fibers in parallel or
without align? Why?
hich one has higher strength,made from long fibers or
made from short fibers? Why?
twist
ply
strength
abrasion resistance
How does the twist affect the abrasion resistance of the yarn?strength of the yarn?
fiber cohesion yarn strength
st
ren
gt
h
tpi
optimum twist
Why the fine-count ply yarns are being used in place of
single yarns when weaving machines operating at
increasingly higher speeds?
ith same total diameter,which one has higher strength?
Single yarn or ply-yarn? Why?
evenness
Control of evenness is an important component of
yarn quality control.
even
If the diameter of a yarn is constant throughout its
length,the yarn is perfectly even.
In some cases unevenness is desirable.
warp fibers
blending fibers
desirable properties undesirable propertiesbalance
intimate blend combining plies
Control of blending is necessary to correctly balance
fiber properties and to ensure accurate labeling of
fiber content.
bl
en
di
ng
Study Questions
1,What is meant by the terms direct and
indirect yarn numbering systems?
2,What is the relationship between yarn
twist and torque?
3,What is the relationship between yarn
twist and yarn strength?
4,Which would you expect to be the
stronger yarn,a 60/3 or a 40/1? Explain
your answer.
Activities
Collect some yarn samples to show varying
levels of twist and size.
sewing thread
rope
twine
20ply 3ply
singles yarn
cable
hawser
rope
Introduction to Textile
? Objectives:
1,To provide an overview of the importance of textiles in world
history and in the United States (and Chinese) economy.
2,To describe the primary textile markets.
? Key Words:
fabric primary textile markets yarn
fiber textile
? Glossary of Textile Terms
pile rug 绒头地毯 garment（一件）衣服，外衣，外表
flying shuttle 飞梭 spinning jenny詹尼多轴纺纱机
drafting roller 牵伸罗拉 spinning mule走锭细纱机
power loom 力织机 tufted carpet 簇绒地毯
MFA 多种纤维协定 GATT 关贸总协定
? textile
Generally,any product made from fibers of spinnable length,
More specifically,
(1) Staple fibers or filaments that are suitable for
conversion into nonwoven fabric or yarns for the
preparation of woven or knitted fabric.
(2) Yarns made from natural or manmade fiber,
(3) A fabric made from fibers and yarns,
(4) An end-use article,produced from fibers,yarns,or
fabrics,that retains the flexibility and drape of the
original yarn or fabric.
A unit,either natural or manmade,
that serves as the basic element,or
“building block”,of fabrics and other
textile structures,Most fibers are
characterized by having a length at
least 100 times their diameter,
Short fibers that are measured in
inches or fractions of inches (or
centimeters),as opposed to
meters or yards,A fiber strand of continuous
length,
A continuous strand of staple or
filament textile fibers in a form
suitable for knitting,weaving,or
other methods of intertwining,
interlacing,interlooping,or
entangling to form a fabric.
A planar structure consisting of
yarns or fibers.
Primary textile markets
textile
industrial
domestic
apparel
Which category are protective clothing and military uniforms
belonged to?
Which category are carpets and floor coverings belonged to?
Industrial Development
8000 B.C,flax was used by the Swiss Lake Dwellers
Flax fabric of 4000
B.C,
HuNan Province
Before 4000 B.C,Silk was used in China.Silk fabric of 2700 B.C.
Zhejiang Province
Between 3500 to 3000 B.C,Cotton fiber and fabrics were used in
India and Peru.A cotton blanket used in Song Dynasty,Zhejiang
Province
About 2000 B.C,Domesticated sheep were raised in Mesopotamia.
A
w
o
o
l
f
a
b
r
i
Manufactured by hand before 500 B.C,in China
Machine done by hand before the 18th century of the
Industrial Revolution
Intensive industrialization after Industrial Revolution(1770-1850)
Flying shuttle 1733 John kay
Spinning jenny 1767 James Hargreaves
Water-powered spinning machine 1772 Richard Arkwright
Spinning mule 1779 Samuel Crompton
Power loom 1780 Edmund Cartwrigt
Economical development
The Great Silk Road the 2nd century B.C,to the 9th century A.D.
By the 12th century,England was a major exporter of wool
After A.D,1500,India was a major exporter of dyed and cotton
fabric of Europe
After Industrial Revolution,the textile and apparel industries
developed in Europe.
In the 1940s and 1950s,the industry was consolidated.
Now,the traditional industry is changing from labor-intensive to
automation.
Textile market (I)
Textile market (II)
Fiber consumption in the United States
(pound,per capita)
24
1.2
39.3
2.2
cotton wool manufactured fiber other
Textile market (III)
A comparison of fiber outputs by China and the whole World
(unit,billion tons) 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000
w o rl d 94 1 4 9, 2 2 1 1, 7 2 9 6, 3 3 8 2, 7 510
Ch i n a 7, 5 1 2, 1 25 3 4, 7 72 120
w o rl d 1 6, 8 3 3, 1 8 3, 8 1 3 7, 3 1 7 6, 5 275
Ch i n a 0 0, 1 1 4, 5 1 6, 5 69
w o rl d 6 6, 5 1 0 1, 1 1 1 7, 8 1 3 9, 9 1 8 7, 1 198
Ch i n a 7 1 0, 6 2 2, 8 2 7, 1 4 4, 2 4 4, 2
f i b er o u t p u t s
m an m ad e f i b er
o u t p u t s
co t t o n o u t p u t s
Textile market (IV)
A comparison of labor cost of major area in the world
(unit,dollar / labor,hour)
Area 1996 1998 2000
Japan 24.31 20.70 26.10
Italy 16.65 15.81 14.71
America 12.26 12.97 14.24
Taiwan 6.38 5.85 7.23
Hong Kong 4.90 5.65 6.10
Korea 5.65 3.63 5.32
Turkey 2.02 2.48 2.69
Thailand 1.56 1.09 1.18
China 0.58 0.62 0.69
India 0.56 0.60 0.58
Pakistan 0.43 0.40 0.37
Indonesia 0.52 0.24 0.32
Textile market (V)
Proportion of export by China to the whole world
(unit,billion dollars)
Year Export by the world
Export by China
Sum Proportion to the world
1990 218.9 14.6 6.4
1995 307.7 37.9 12.3
1996 338.1 37.1 11.0
1997 360.4 45.6 12.7
1998 334.6 42.9 12.8
1999 333.9 43.1 12.9
2000 356.0 52.2 14.6
The U.S,textile industry has sought to improve
its competitive position with positive action,
rather than by relying on import restrictions to
increase sales of American-made goods.
How about China?
Study questions
1.What are textiles?
2.What are the major textile markets?
Activities
Visit some stores and examine textile labels,
Notice the difference in label information on
apparel versus upholstered furniture.
PART I FIBERS
Before 1900,only natural fibers and artificial silk
or rayon
Before 1940,basic textile textbooks contained
little information about fibers.
Today fibers have proliferated,and the differences
in their properties are important in determining
the end-use performance of textile products.
CHAPTER 2
? Objectives:
1,To describe the criteria used to classify fibers and to
differentiate between staple and filament fiber forms.
2,To explain the scope of the Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act and the difference between generic
names and trademarks.
? Key Words:
filament natural fiber trademark generic name
staple fiber WPL manmade fiber TFPIA
? Technical Term
bast fiber 韧皮纤维 asbestos 石棉纤维
alpaca 阿尔帕卡，羊驼 angora 安哥拉山羊毛
cashmere 山羊绒，开士米 mohair 马海毛
tussah silk 柞蚕丝 vicuna 骆马绒
flax (linen) 亚麻 hemp 大麻
jute 黄麻 kapok 木棉
ramie 苎麻 sisal 剑麻
WPL 羊毛产品标签法 artificial silk 人造丝
rayon 人造丝，人造纤维 Bemberg 本伯格铜铵丝
nylon 尼龙 Dacron 大可纶，涤纶
Acrilan 阿克利纶 saran 莎纶
vinyon 维荣 modal 莫代尔
spandex斯潘德克斯弹性纤维 hosiery 针织品，袜类
TFPIA Abbreviation for the Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act that defines generic names of fibers
and their use,It was passed by congress in 1958 and
took effect in 1960.
Fibers
Natural fibers
Manufactured fibers
Fibers obtained in usable
form directly from animals,
vegetables,or minerals,
Fibers,such as rayon,nylon,
and polyester,produced by
chemical reactions that are
controlled by people,as
opposed to fibers that occur
naturally,such as cotton,
wool,and silk.
Natural Fibers
Natural fibers
animal
Plant or vegetable
mineral
protein
cellulosic
asbestos
Classification of Natural Fibers
Animal/Protein Fibers Plant/Cellulosic Fibers Mineral Fibers
alpaca cotton asbestos
angora flax (linen)
cashmere hemp
mohair jute
silk kapok
tussah silk ramie
vicuna sisal
Manufactured fibers
2,The proposed new generic classification must be of
importance to consumers at large,not merely to a small
group of professionals.
3,The fiber must be in active commercial development.
Three conditions must be met before a group may be
added:
1,The proposed fiber must have a chemical constitution
radically different from those currently listed; and that
chemical constitution must produce significantly different
physical properties,
Generic name
The group of all fibers that share a common chemical
composition; can include several that are competitive
in the marketplace and are protected by different
tradem rk registrations.
Generic Names Specified by the TFPIA
acetate azlon modacrylic olefin rubber triacetate
acrylic glass novoloid PBI saran vinal
anidex lastrile nylon polyester spandex vinyon
aramid metallic nytril rayon sulfar lyocell
Other companies
Trademarks
Du Pont
Nylon
Dacron
Remember,
The generic name for a fiber is established by
law and only those fibers that match the
chemical description may be labeled or
advertised with that name.
However,one company can use the same trade
name for all of its’ goods.
trademark A word,letter,device,or symbol used in
connection with merchandise and alluding to the origin or
ownership of the product to which it is applied.
trade name A name given by a manufacturer or merchant
to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold by that
company alone,More accurately,it is called a trademark name
and may be protected as a trademark.
Miclon Polyester
Miclon polyester
MICLON POLYESTER
miclon Polyester
miclon polyester
miclon Polyester miclon POLYESTER
Polyester Miclon
polyester Miclon
Miclon polyester
Miclon polyesterMiclon polyester
Which one or ones are correct?
Other TFPIA Provisions
Fiber content
96 percent nylon,4 percent other fiber
The sequence is in
descending according to
the percentage
Both the generic
name and
percentage of it
Less than 5%
could be labeled
―other‖
96 percent nylon,4 percent spandex for strech
Given the purpose
of the fiber
Country of origin
Made in U.S.A.A product made entirely in the United States
A product imported from other country Made in Japan
A product made in the United States from an imported textile
Made in U.S.A,from imported fabric
These rules also apply to advertising and
catalog descriptions of textile products.
Other fiber classification terms
Manufactured fibers
Length of fibers
Manmade fibers
regenerated synthetic
Staple fibers
Filament fibers
Short fibers that are
measured in inches or
fractions of inches (or
centimeters),as opposed
to meters or yards,
A fiber strand of
continuous length,
Study questions
1.Discuss the major differences between natural
and manmade fibers.
2.What information is needed to classify a new
fiber?
3.Why does a company develop a trade mark for
a fiber?
Activities
Collect advertisements or labels for clothing and
home furnishings,What information about
textiles is included? Are there any parts of the
ads and the labels that you believe are incorrect?
Rewrite some of the advertisements or labels to
improve their information on textile products.
CHAPTER 3 Fiber Properties
? Objectives:
To describe primary and secondary properties of
fibers and their relationships to end-use
performance.
? Key Words:
tenacity decitex moisture regain tex
denier thermal properties density
morphology wicking hydrophilic
yield point
? Glossary of Technical Term
polymer 聚合体 length-to-width ratio长径比
strength 强度 flexibility 可挠曲性
cohesiveness 粘结性，内聚性 uniformity 均匀度，整齐度
mass 质量 fineness 细度
luster 光泽度 color 色彩
moisture absorption 吸湿性 elongation 伸长
elastic recovery 弹性回复 resiliency 弹性变形；弹力
thermal properties热学性能 abrasion resistance 耐磨性
specimen 试样，样品 tensile strength拉伸强力，断裂强力
tenacity 强度（单位细度的强力） specific stress 比应力
breaking load 断裂负荷 linear density 线密度
denier 旦尼尔 tex 特克斯
pliability 可挠性，柔韧性 spinning quality 纺纱性能
scale 鳞片（毛） merge number纺纱批号
run 一次连续生产总长 lot 批，批量，组
specific gravity比重 flammability 可燃性
Micronaire fineness 马克隆尼细度（气流仪细度） wicking芯吸
yield point 屈服点 morphology 形态学
decitex 分特 polypropylene聚丙烯
hydrophobic 拒水的 hydrophilic 亲水的
moisture content含水量，含水率 moisture regain回潮率
commercial moisture regain 商业公定回潮率
Saturation regain 饱和回潮率 stress-strain curve应力应变曲线
modulus 模数，模量
glass transition temperature 玻璃化转变点
melting point 熔点 flex abrasion 曲磨，挠曲磨损
flat abrasion 平面磨损 actinic degradation 光化递解
at a competitive price
Primary fiber properties
length to width ratio
strength
flexibility
cohesiveness
uniformity Required for manufacturing
or processing the fiber into
yarn or fabric.
fiber properties
Secondary
Fiber
properties
color mass
recovery
moisture absorption
luster
fineness elongation
resiliency
thermal property
abrasion resistance
Influence
consumer to
select and affect
processing
costs
production and processing of a fiber
price
the consumer is willing to pay
Primary properties
Length to width ratio (L/W)
affect processing
affect flexible
A minimum ratio of 100 is thought to be
essential,and most fibers have much higher
ratios.
Fibers shorter than 1.3 cm are seldom used in
yarn manufacturing.
Strength
to withstand processing and provide the desired
durability in its end use.
ASTM Acronym for the American Society for
Testing and Materials; most textile standards in
ASTM are developed by Committee D-13.
strength
Tensile Strength
Tenacity
The maximum tensile stress required
to rupture a fiber,expressed as
pounds per square inch or grams per
square centimeter
The tensile strength of a fiber,expressed
as force per unit of linear density of an
unstrained specimen,It is usually
expressed in grams per denier or grams per
tex.
Tensile Strength
1,What is the breaking load?
2,Why does the comparison be made based on
the cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen
when comparing the breaking strength of different
materials?
3,What are the units for expressing the tensile
strength?
psi—pound-force per square inch
gf/mm2—gram-force per square millimeter
4,Why the tensile strength is not used widely in
the practice?
Tenacity
Linear density
denier
tex
Mass in grams of 9,000 meters of
material.
Mass in grams of 1,000 meters of
material.
Specific strength
g/d or gf/d—gram-force per denier
mN/t—millinewton per tex
flexibility pliability
The ability of a fiber to resist repeated bending or
bowing without rupture.
Required in the manufacture of a yarn or fabric.
Also important in end-use performance.
Cohesiveness Spinning quality
Made the fibers can adhere to each other.
Affects yarn fineness and evenness.
the surface contours of fibers
cotton fibers
wool fibers
manmade fibers
convolutions or twist
scales
produce coils,crimps or zigzag shapes
Unevenness of the fiber surfaces
Why cohesion is less important for filament fibers than for
staple fiber?
Uniformity
Made the fibers processed together with less difficulty.
manufactured fibers
natural fibers
Virtually identical in a run or lot
To combine or blend
Secondary Properties
Determine the end use
for a specific fiber
Affect the consumer’s
satisfaction with a product
manufacturers consumers
tradeoff
selection
morphology
The study of
form and shape
of a substance.
microscopic
macroscopic
length,color,luster,crimp
surface,cross-sectional shape
Mass
Used to describe the quantity of matter in a body.
Weight
Used to describe the force exerted on a body by gravity.
mass
Specific Gravity
Density
The mass per unit volume of a substance.
The ratio of the mass of a material to the
mass of an equal volume of water at 4℃,
Micronaire
Fineness
directly
indirectly
cotton fibers
A type of air-flow instrument which
expressed the fineness of material with
micronaire fineness.
In general,the M of cotton fiber should between 4-5,
The larger the M is,the thicker the fiber,Yarn Size wool fibers
In China,quality number is usually used as the expression
for fineness of wool fiber,Linear Density all kinds of fibers
denier
tex
decitex
When comparing the fineness of same fibers with the same
density using the denier system (or tex system),it can be
assumed that the fiber with the lower denier (or tex) is the
finer fiber.
When comparing the fineness of fibers with different density,
it is possible to calculate the approximate cross-sectional area
of the fibers by knowing their denier (or tex) and its density.
)0 0 0,9 0 0( d e n s it y
d e n ie ra r e a
??
It is unwise to compare deniers directly because most fibers
are quite dissimilar in density.
Luster
light the surface of the fiber reflect
luster
The gloss,sheen,or shine of any surface.
Smooth surfaces
reflect light back to
their sources and
appear shiny.
Irregular surfaces
reflect light in a
scattered,random
manner and appear dull.
chemical orientation
amorphous
crystalline luster
duller
Color
wool Off-white,tan,brown,gray,black
cotton white,cream,green,taupe
bast fibers tan to brown
manmade fibers white or off-white,
dark gold,brown,black
%1 0 0% ??? ow dwowmc
Moisture Absorption
fibers
hydrophobic
hydrophilic Water loving; having a high
affinity for moisture by either
absorption or adsorption.
Water fearing or hating; having
a low degree of moisture
absorption or adsorption.
How to determine the amount of water in fibers?
weighing oven drying reweighing
conditioned atmosphere 70± 2° F(20± 2℃ ),
65± 2 percent relative humidity
wet weight dry weight
moisture regainmoisture contentThe moisture in a textile material,
determined under prescribed
conditions and expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the
moisture-free specimen,%1 0 0% ?
??
dw
dwowmr
The water or moisture in a textile
material,determined under prescribed
conditions and expressed as a
percentage of the combined mass of
fiber and moisture
absorption
adsorption
The attraction and retention of gases or
liquids within the pores of a fiber; also,
the retention of moisture between fibers
within yarns and between fibers or yarns
within fabrics.
The attraction of gases,liquids,or solids
on the surface of fibers,yarn,or fabric,
wicking The property of a fiber that allows
moisture to move rapidly along the fiber
surface and pass quickly through the
fabric.
The moisture absorbency of a fiber can affect its comfort,How
to increase the comfort of the consumer?
Elongation and Recovery
FFelongation The amount of stretch or extension that a
fiber,yarn,or fabric will accept.
percent elongation The ratio of the extension of a material to
the length of the material prior to
stretching.
original length
extended length
100)(% ??? l e n g t ho r i g i n a l l e n g t ho r i g i n a ll e n g t he x t e n d e de l o n g a t i o n
Stress-Strain Curve
The elongation
expressed as a fraction
or percentage of the
original specimen length.
Graphic representation of the relationship between the
change of a specimen’s length in the direction of applied
stress and the magnitude of the stress causing the
deformation,In most textile curves,stress is calculated in
terms of linear density.
The resistance to
deformation,usually
expressed in terms of
g/d or N/tex
The ratio of change in stress to change in strain is
called a modulus,Modulus is the resistance to stretch
r elongatio,
Elastic recovery The ability of a fiber,yarn,or fabric to return
to its original length after elongating tension is released.
Why are the lower levels not higher levels of extension used in
report elastic recovery?
That poi t on a stress-strain curve
diagram of a fiber at which the curve
departs from its original straight-line
form; that point at which the material
is no longer elastic.
Resiliency
The ability of a fiber or fabric to recover from a deformed
state– that is,return to its original shape after flexing,
compressing,stretching,twisting,or other deformation.
Thermal Properties
Characteristics of material pertaining to using,or caused
by heat; includes,but is not limited to char,melting,and
ignition points.
thermoplastic Capable of becoming soft or moldable on
application of heat.
temperature
ignition temperature
glass transition temperature (Tg)
melting point (Tm)
safe ironing temperature
For
thermoplastic
glass transition temperature (Tg)
The point at which the amorphous regions of a fiber
develop flow,but the material retains its basic fiber form.
The material becomes pliable,may be
reformed or shaped,and will maintain
the new form until the fiber is again
heated to the same temperature.
melting point (Tm)
The point at which the material begins to lose its shape or
form and becomes molten or liquefies.
Permanent fiber damage
textured yarns and permanent pleats
flammability
Consumer Products Safety Commission
Flammable Fabrics Act
Specific standards
apparel textiles,
carpets and rugs,
children’s sleepwear,
and mattresses and
mattress pads.
Abrasion Resistance
abrasion
yarn and fabric
construction
fiber properties
finishing
techniques
determine
flex abrasion flat or plane abrasion
Miscellaneous Properties
Chemical and biological resistance actinic degradationRelationship of Fiber Properties to Performance.
biological resistance
chemical resistance
thermal behavior
abrasion resistanceelasticityflexibilitydye affinity
chemical resistancecohesivenessstatic generationresilience
absorbencyflexibilityabsorbencyabrasion resistance
resiliencetenacityelasticityluster
tenacityabrasion resistancedensitycolor
MaintenanceDurabilityComfortAppearance
Study questions
1.What are primary fiber properties,and why are
they important?
2.What are secondary fiber properties,and how
do they relate to consumer satisfaction with
textile products?
3.Explain what is meant by the stress-strain
properties of a fiber.
4.What is meant by the term fiber morphology?
Activities
Start your own chart of the physical properties of fibers.
CHAPTER 4
Natural Protein Fiber
? Objectives:
1.To list and describe the properties of the two major
protein fibers,and familiar with some specialty hair
fibers.
2.To identify the differences between wool and silk.
3.To identify the legislation that applies to wool and silk.
? Key Words:
fibroin sericin throwing
keratin virgin wool silk
protein fiber wool specialty fibers
? Glossary of Technical Terms
amino acid 氨基酸 protein fiber 蛋白质纤维
fleece 羊毛 (尤指未剪下的 ) pupal 蛹的
Merino sheep 美利奴绵羊 epidermis 表皮
cuticle 表皮 cortical cell 皮层细胞
cortex 皮质 ortho-cortical 正皮质 (层 )，正外皮
para- cortical 偏皮质 medulla 毛髓
pigment 色素 fibrilla 原纤维
endocuticle 内表皮层 exocuticle 外表皮层，外角质层
epicuticle 鳞片表层 crush 变形
crease 折皱 hygroscopic 吸湿的
blot up 吸干 outerwear 外衣，外套
dimensional stability 尺寸稳定性 felting 毡合
relaxation shrinkage松驰回缩 sponging 润湿预缩
degradative finish降解整理 dylan process迪兰 (毛织物 )聚合物防缩
法
pretreatment 预处理 Sanforlan process 桑福伦整理
wet chlorination process湿氯防缩整理 bone-dry 极干燥的
self-extinguish自动灭火 disintegrate (使 )分解
pungent odor 刺激性气味 stiff 僵硬的，僵直的
discompose 分解 carbonize 使成碳，碳化
alkali 碱，碱性的 dissolve 溶解
prolong 伸长 cystine 胱氨酸
moth 蛀虫 mildew 霉，霉菌
pest 害虫，有害物 IWS 国际羊毛咨询处
overall 外衣，罩衫，工装裤 woolen 毛织物
worsted 精纺毛织物 pelt 毛皮
protein fibers
Fibers composed of amino acids in various
configurations,from natural sources such as
wool or silk or from manmade sources such
as the azlons.
specialty fibers
Traditionally,hair and fibers from animals other
than sheep,Also used to designate manmade fibers
developed for specialized end uses.
wool
A fine fiber (hair) obtained from sheep,In labeling,
the term wool also may be used to identify fibers
from other fleece animals,such as the Angora goat,
cashmere goat,camel,alpaca,llama,and vicuna.
silk
A fine,strong,continuous filament formed by the
silkworm during the construction of a cocoon; also
refers to the filament extruded by spiders other than
silkworms.
provide warmth,a pleasant hand,attractive
appearance,good absorbency,and resiliency.
lustrous appearance and unique hand.
Wool
Wool Production from Sheep
Merino sheep small diameter,the standard against which other fibers are
judged.
slightly coarser than Merino woolDelaine Rambouillet
Cheviot
Columbia
Corriedale
Montadale
Panama
Produce medium fineness fibers
Navaho
Costwold
lincoln
Romney
Produce coarse fibers
The diameters of wool fibers are from 18mm to 40mm
Properties
The fiber is cylindrical.morphology
scale
epidermis
or cuticle
cortex
Make up about 90% of the
fiber mass and consist of
fibrils.
Medulla may not be visible in wool fiber,It
allows nutrients to reach the fiber during its
growth phase and contains the pigment that
gives fibers their color.
stress-strain relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
dry—1.0 to 1.7 g/d
wet—0.7 to 1.5 g/dweak
Care is taken to
compensate for the
inherent weakness.
At the break ranges from 20 to 40%.
Wet elongation may exceed 70%.
After 2% elongation has 99% recovery;
After 10% elongation has over 50%
recovery.
excellent Durable for apparel and home furnishings.
Recovers readily from crushing or creasing.exceptionally
allows durable crease
or pleats to be
pressed into the fabric.unique structure
density
Fiber Density(g/cm3) Commercial Regain (%) Dry Tenacity (g/d) Breaking Elongation (%)
cotton 1.54 7.00 3.0 3.0-10
linen 1.50 8.75 6.0 2.5-3
silk 1.25 11.00 2.4 10-25
wool 1.30 13.60 1.0 20-40
acetate 1.30 6.50 1.2 25
nylon 1.14 4.50 4.3 19
olefin 0.90 0.00 3.5 15
polyester 1.38 0.40 3.0 20
rayon 1.50 11.00 2.4 20
spandex 1.20 1.30 0.5 700
Wool fibers are among the heavier fibers.
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain of 13.6 to 16.0%
Wool is a very hygroscopic fiber.
Saturation moisture regain more than 29%.
when absorbs moisture wool produces heat
a comfortable fiber to wear in cold,
damp climates.
Wool has some hydrophobic characteristics.
initial absorption is slow
Protecting wearers from the elements.
dimensional stability
relaxation shrinkage
felting shrinkage
a reversible reaction
sponging Application of water to wool fabric,
followed by drying with heat,to produce
shrinkage,Sometimes called ―London
shrunk‖ fabric.
Relaxation shrinkage ensures that the product will not
exhibit excessive shrinkage under normal conditions of
use and care.
an irreversible reaction
Felting shrinkage produces certain types of compact,
thick wool fabrics from knitted or woven structures,and
also makes it possible to produce the fabric known as
felt directly from wool fibers.
shrink-resistant finishes
to reduce or eliminate felting properties of wool
be important in developing washable wool fabrics.
degradative finishes
polymer deposition finishes
alter the cuticle of scales of the wool
Coat the structure and prevent scale interlocking.
Why does shrinking occur?
thermal properties
In the presence of a flame the fiber burns slowly.
Most wool fibers in normal use contain enough moisture to
make them self-extinguishing.
Burning wool produces pungent odor.
The residue from burning is a brittle,black bead that crushed
when squeezed.
When heated in boiling water for an extended period,the fiber
becomes weak and somewhat stiff.
At dry temperatures above 130℃,it slowly decomposes and
turns yellow; at temperatures greater than 300℃,chars and
disintegrates.
chemical properties
dilute acid resistant Dilute sulfuric acid are used in processing
concentrated
mineral acid decomposed
alkalies
Keratin is very
sensitive to it
organic
solvents resistant
Used in cleaning and
stain removal do not
damage wool fibers.
other properties
effect of sunlight Prolonged exposure to sunlight,the ultraviolet rays break the molecule
The fiber is degraded and can be
destroyed after long outdoor exposure.
effect of insects
Carpet beetles and the larvae of some
moths are attracted to wool as food
source.
Has some resistance to bacteria and
mildew.
End Use
Used primarily in apparel and home furnishing.
positive properties
negative properties
Naturally crease-resistant,flexible,elastic,absorbent,
and warm.
The difficulties encountered in laundering and the
allergic reactions of some individuals to the fiber.
IWS International Wool Secretariat
Wool Bureau
Woolmark
Woolblend Mark
A licensed symbol issued by the Wool Bureau for
products containing 100% wool,Products so labeled
must pass a stringent series of tests to use this symbol.
A licensed symbol issued by the Wool Bureau for
products containing at least 60% wool plus other fiber,
Products so labeled must pass a stringent series of tests
in order to use this symbol.
two major types of wool fabrics
woolens
worsteds
Usually have a soft hand and a low bulk density.
Rougher coarser and thicker than worsteds.
Usually have a soft hand and a low bulk density.
Have a smooth and crisp hand.
Fur Products Labeling
1,What is fur?
2,What is used fur?
3,What is fur product?
4,What is waste fur?
The act requires that labels state the true English
name of the animal from which the fur was taken,
the country of origin,and information about
whether the fur product contains damaged,used or
scrap fur,Furs that have been pointed,dyed,
bleached or artificially colored must be labeled to
indicate such treatment.
reel 缫丝，丝框 cocoon 茧，蚕茧
unwound 退绕 filature 缫丝、缫丝机
guide 导丝器 hand-reeled silk手缫生丝，土丝
reeled silk 绞丝 throwing 捻丝
brin 单丝 thrown silk 加捻丝线
bave 茧丝 tram silk 纬丝
single silk 缫制的生丝 grenadine 紧捻丝线
ply yarn 合股线 crepe 绉丝，绉线
chiffon 雪纺绸，薄绢 degumming 脱胶
sericin 丝胶 gum 胶
waste silk 废丝 schappe silk 绢丝
weighted silk 加重丝绸 weighting 增重
weighting agent加重剂，增重剂 cultivated silk家蚕丝，桑蚕丝
Glossary of Technical Terms
tannin 丹宁酸，鞣酸 scorching 焦化
fibroin 丝心蛋白 scroop 丝鸣，绢鸣
chemise 女工无袖衬衣 suture 缝合线
necktie 领带 oriental rug 东方地毯
lining 衬里，衬料 organzine 经丝，加捻生丝
silk
Processing Silk
Reeling
cocoons hot water locate the ends
guide wound onto a reel
filature
reeled yarn
Why are several cocoons joined in a yarn?
throwing
The combining and twisting of filament fibers,both
silk and manmade.
thrown yarn
Singles yarn A simple yarn formed from a
single ply; it may be formed from short-staple
fibers with sufficient twist to hold together,a
single monofilament,or multiple filaments twisted
or untwisted.
tram silk A low-twist ply silk yarn formed
by combining two or three singles.
organzine Usually a silk yarn of two or m re plies,
first twisted as singles,then plied in the opposite
dir ction with a medium am unt of twist; used as
warp yarn.
grenadine A tightly t isted ply yarn co posed of
two r three twisted st ands (singles).
dugumming
The gum stiffens the silk filament and provides some protection
during processing.
Before final finishing,the sericin is removed by boiling the
fabric or yarn in water and soap.
Short lengths of silk fibers,produced as silk filaments,
that are reeled or processed; used in making rough,
textured spun yarns or in blends with cotton or wool,
Sometimes called silk noil.
Short staple silk
waste silk
Broken filaments
The short lengths of fiber at the end of the cocoon
The short fiber lengths of cocoons from which moths
have hatched
Pure Dye Silk Legislation
If the fiber contains more than 10% by weight of
weighting finish,the silk other than black silk
must be labeled as wighted silk.
If the fiber contains 10% or less by weight of
weighting finish,the silk must be labeled as
Pure Dye Silk.
Black silk fabrics may be labeled ―Pure Dye Silk‖
with up to 15% weighting.
Length,between 900 and 1200 meters,some exceed 2700 meters.
Fineness,a single brin is 9 to 11 micrometers in average width.
Properties
morphology
Length and Fineness
Color and Luster
Microscopic Features
Cultivated silk is more lustrous and lighter in color than tussah.
Cultivated silk fibers:
have been degummed -- look like smooth,transparent rods,
are not degummed-- have rough,irregular surface,
Tussah,quite even but is darker in color than cultivated silk,and
may have faint longitudinal striations.
Cross section,the shape of an isoceles triangle without inner
markings.
stress-strain relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
Dry tenacity is 2.4-5.1 g/d.
Wet tenacity is 2-4.3 g/d.
At break of dry fibers is 10-25%; of wet fibers is as high as 35%.
At 2% elongation,has 92% percent elongation recovery.
Average resiliency.
density
Between 1.25-1.34 g/cm3.
How to calculate the linear density of the fiber in denier if both
the density and the cross-sectional area of silk filament?
)0 0 0,9 0 0( d e n s it y
d e n ie ra r e a
??
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain is 11%.
Saturation regain is 25-35%.
thermal properties
Ignites and will continue to burn as long as a flame source is present.
Self-extinguishing has the odor of singed hair of feathers,and leaves
a crisp,brittle black ash.
Can not be affected when the temperatures below 135℃,
Rapid degradation when the temperatures above 177℃,
Safe ironing temperature is between 121-135℃,
Will be scorched when temperature above 150℃,
chemical properties
acids More susceptible to acid damage than wool
alkalies be damaged by alkalies
organic
solvents resistant
Used in cleaning and
spot removal
The chemical reactions of silk are similar to those of wool.
Organic acids do not damage silk and in fact are sometimes
used in finishing the fiber.
other properties
effect of sunlight
Accelerates the decomposition of silk.
Weighted silks are more susceptible to
damage from natural aging than are
unweighted silks.
effect of insects
Resistant to attack by mildew,moths,
and many bacteria and fungi
Attacked by rot-producing bacteria,
carpet beetles.
End Use
Used for luxury apparel,household textiles,and
medical sutures.
Silk apparel fabrics are available in a wide range
of weights and constructions.
Silk is used in fine drapery and upholstery fabrics.
Silk sutures still are used by some surgeons.
Study questions
1.What are the properties of silk and wool that
make them attractive to consumers?
2.What properties of wool are improved by
finishing?
3.What quick methods can be used to identify
wool and silk?
4.Why the sericin is removed until before final
finishing?
Compare the properties of wool and silk.
Activity
cashmere
camel hair
mohair
rabbit hair
spider silk
Merino sheep
Delaine
Rambouillet
Cheviot Columbia
Corriedale
Montadale
Panama
Navaho Cotswold
Lincoln Romney
CHAPTER 5
Natural Cellulosic Fibers
? Objectives:
1.To describe the characteristics of naturally occurring
cellulosic fibers,and relate them to the care and uses of
the fibers.
2.To explain the production and processing of natural
cellulosic fibers.
? Key Words:
bast fiber hemp cotton
jute scutching flax
ramie
? Glossary of Technical Terms
seed hair 籽纤维，种子纤维 fruit husk 果实纤维
plant stem 茎纤维 plant leaf 叶纤维
bast fiber 韧皮纤维 milkweed fiber马利筋属纤维
kapok 木棉 coir 椰子纤维
abaca 马尼拉麻 henequen 赫纳昆麻，剑麻
sisal 西沙尔麻，剑麻 palma 帕尔马丝兰属叶纤
维
pineapple 菠萝纤维 yucca 丝兰属叶纤维
gin 轧棉机 cotton lint 皮棉
linter 棉短绒 burlap 打包粗麻布
trash 杂质 mercerize 作丝光处理
Sea Island cotton海岛棉 uplands cotton陆地棉
mercerization丝光作用 lumen 中腔，腔管
elliptical 椭圆的 mercerized cotton丝光棉
fluffy 篷松的 deterioration 劣化
starch 浆，上浆 rinse 漂净
neutralize 中和 launder 洗涤
diaper 尿布 fungus 霉菌，真菌
silverfish 蠧虫 pillowcase 枕头套
slipcover 沙发套 braided rugs 编结地毯
pile rug 绒头地毯 repellency 抵抗性，排斥性
cellulosic fibers
Fibers composed of naturally occurring
cellulose,cellulose dissolved and regenerated
by chemical processing,or derivatives of
cellulose such as cellulose acetate,Examples
include cotton,flax,rayon,and jute.
Come from four plant parts:
plant stem
seed hair
fruit husk
bast fiber
plant leaf
cotton
Processing
seed cotton gin
cotton lint (ginned cotton)
linter
cotton bale (ginned bale)testgrade
length fineness color trash ginning preparation
Cotton fibers too short in
length for yarn or fabric
manufacturing,usually
declared waste.
Properties
morphology
Length
Fineness
very short-staple fiber less-than ? inch
short-staple fiber 13/16 -15/16 inch
medium-staple fiber 15/16 - 11/8 inch
extra long-staple fiber
11/8 - 13/8 inchordinary long-staple fiber
over 13/8 inch
between 12 to 20 micrometers.
Sea Island cotton have a mike of 1.28;
Upland cotton variety have a mike of 5.23.
Color and Luster
Microscopic Features
Color Varies.
mercerization Application of sodium hydroxide to
cotton yarn or fabric under tension,to improve the
luster and increase the affinity of the fiber for dyes,
In slack mercerization,without tension,the finish
imparts stretch properties.
Luster Naturally fairly dull.
longitudinal ribbonlike shape with convolutions at
irregular intervals.
cross section shows the outer cell wall,or cuticle;
the secondary wall with its layers of cellulose; the
lumen.
The central canal of a
natural cellulosic fiber,
usually cotton.
Stress-Strain Relationships
tenacity
elongation
resiliency
Dry tenacity is 3.0-5.0 g/d.
Wet tenacity is 3.3-6.0 g/d.
Low resiliency.
At break of fibers is 3-7%; of slack mercerized fiber is as high as
10%.
At 2% elongation,has 75% percent elongation recovery.
density 1.54 g/cm3.
moisture regain
Standard moisture regain is 8.3%.
At 100% relative humidity the moisture regain is 25-27%.
Commercial moisture regain is 7.0%.
To mercerized cotton fiber:
Standard moisture regain is 10.3%.
Commercial moisture regain is 8.5%.
thermal properties
Burns readily and quickly.
Has the odor similar to that of burning paper,and leaves a small,
fluffy gray ash.
Can be gradually decomposed when long exposed to dry heat above
150℃,
Rapid deterioration when the temperatures above 246℃,
Safe ironing temperature is given as 204℃,
Starch increases the tendency of the fiber to scorch.
chemical properties
cold dilute acids
Degrade
alkalies
disintegration
organic
solvents resistant Used for stain removal
No affection
Strong and
hot dilute acids
highly resistance mercerization
other properties
effect of
sunlight
Will be eventually yellow and
degraded.
effect of
biological
The mildew fungus will grow on
cotton fibers especially under warm,
dark,damp conditions,Bacteria also
degrade the fiber.
Moths and carpet beetles do not
attack cotton,but silverfish do.
Unstarched?Starched?
End Use
Used widely in apparel,
home furnishings,and
industrial fabrics.
The Cotton Incorporated
cotton symbol has become
one of the most readily
recognized advertising
images.
How to improve dimensional stability of cotton fabrics?
Study questions
1.What are the major properties of cotton,and
what properties make the fiber particularly
attractive to consumers?
2.Explain how to process cotton linter.
3.What is the principle of mercerization?
4.Compare the properties of cotton and flax (use
table).
cotton
milkweed
kapok
coir
flax
flax
ramie
ramie
hemp
jute
abaca
henequen
sisal
palm
yucca
gin
roller gin
saw gin
linter test
Sea Island cotton Upland cotton
mercerized
cotton
cotton
apparel
domestic
PART II YARNS
whorl
spindle
Hand spinning
Spinning Wheel
Jersey wheel
treadle-operated wheel
CHAPTER 6 Yarn Properties
? Objectives:
1,To describe the differences between single and ply
yarns,and among yarns of varying sizes.
2,To discuss the properties associated with staple and
filament yarns.
3,To discuss the importance of the amount and direction
of twist in a yarn,and discuss the differences in yarn
properties that are associated with yarn construction.
? Key Words:
hank twist multiplier ply yarn
thread yarn number twist
? Glossary of Technical Terms
sewing thread 缝纫线 twine 麻线，绳子
cord 绳，索 thread 线
ply yarn 合股线 ply 纱线股数
monofilament 单纤，单纤丝 multifilament复丝，多纤维丝
novelty yarn 花式纱线 fancy yarn 花式纱线
hawser 粗绳，缆 cable 巨缆
numbering system 细度计量制 yarn number纱线支数
direct system 定长制 indirect system 定重制
yarn count 纱线支数 hank 绞
skein 绞纱 worsted count精纺毛纱支数
woolen run 粗纺毛纱纶 sheer 透明薄纱
twist 捻度，捻回 twist per inch 每英寸捻数
spinning frame细纱机 twist multiplier捻系数
torque 扭矩 kink 纠缠
snarl 缠结 twist setting定捻 (作用 )； (捻度 )定形
protrude 突出 knot 结头
evenness 均匀度 nep 棉结，白星，毛粒
slub 粗节，糙粒 core-spun yarn包芯纱
fiber
yarn
fabric
sewing thread
twine rope
combined yarn
Basic Terminology
yarn A continuous strand of staple or filament textile
fibers in a form suitable for knitting,weaving,or
other methods of intertwining,interlacing,
interlooping,or entangling to form a fabric.
yarn
for fabrics
not for fabrics
for weaving
for knitting
for nonweaving
cord yarn
rope
thread
A strong,high-grade yarn,usually ply,
textured,or core,of even surface for
sewing fabrics or for needlework.
spun yarn
twist together
wrapping together
bind together
A yarn produced from staple fibers.
yarn
singles yarn
ply yarn
A simple yarn formed from a single ply; it may
be formed from short-staple fibers with
sufficient twist to hold together,a single
monofilament,or multiple filaments twisted or
untwisted.
A yarn formed from two or more single strands.
A manmade fiber extruded as
a single fiber or filament.
A manmade fiber extruded as
multiple filaments or strands to
produce a yarn,which then may be
twisted,plied,or fused together.
ply yarn
cord yarn
complex yarn
Yarn composed of two or more piled yarns
twisted together,includes cable,hawser,
rope.
Yarn usually uneven in size,varied in color,
or modified in appearance by the presence
of irregularities deliberately produced
during manufacture,Also called fancy or
novelty yarn.
Perimeter higher than 10
inches; multiply thread.
Entwist from three threads
and each thread has 20 plies.
Twist from three or more plies and the
peri eter is not less than ? inch.
Yarn Size
yarn number
A measure of the fineness or size of a yarn expressed
as mass per unit length in direct yarn numbering
systems or as length per unit mass for indirect yarn
numbering systems; includes denier,decitex,and tex
direct systems; and cotton,worsted,and woolen
counts in the indirect system.
direct systems indirect systems
direct yarn numbering systems
denier system
tex system
9000 meters
1000 meters
The bigger the value is,the thicker the yarn.
How to acquire the yarn number of an appointed yarn?
measure the length
weigh the weight m e t e r sg r a m st e x 1 0 0 0??
Both ASTM and ISO have recommended the tex
system as the standard yarn numbering system.
indirect yarn numbering systems
cotton count
worsted count
840 yards
560 yards
The bigger the value is,the finer the yarn.
woolen run 1600 yards
The cotton,woolen,and worsted systems are
the three used most frequently in the United
States.
cotton count (Ne,cc)
hank A skein of yarn; a standard length of roving or yarn,
The length is usually specified by a yarn numbering system.
p o un d s
y a r d sc o un tt o n
?? 8 4 0c o t
worsted count
p o un d s
y a r d sc o un tw o r s t e d
?? 560
woolen run
Used for short-staple fiber as cotton,
retail cotton and cotton-blend
sewing threads.
Used for long-staple system,
Used for long-staple system,
designating ply
singles
x-ply
20/1 or 20s
40/X
Can we measure and weigh the ply yarn as a single yarn?
Yarn Twist
twist
The turns in a length of yarn; they may be clockwise (S)
or counterclockwise (Z).
The direction in which the fibers are twisted and the
amount of twist inserted affect the properties of yarns
and the products that can be made from the yarns.
strength luster abrasion resistance
hand absorbency flexibility
direction
S twist Z twist
A spindle
rotating
counter-
clockwise
produces
an S twist
A spindle
rotating
clockwise
produces
a Z twist
Most yarns spun on cotton systems have a Z twist.
amount turns per inch (tpi)
st
re
ng
th
tpi
optimum twist
Softer,more bulk,
and more weaker
Why after the optimum twist point,the strength of the
yarn will decrease?When spun shorter fiber,the more twist is required.
twist multiplier (TM)
Indicator of hardness of twist in a yarn; the quotient of
the twist expressed in turns per inch and the square
root of the yarn number in an indirect system.
Ne
t p iTM ?
cotton
knitting yarn
hard twist yarn
weaving yarn
filling yarn
warp yarn
2-3 TM
3-4 TM
4-5 TM
5-7 TM
Why these yarns can not have much higher TM?
How to compare the twist degree of the yarns with different fineness?Different fineness have diff rent effect w en add one
twist in the same length.
balanced yarn liveliness yarn
The twist is
such that the
yarn will
suspend in a
loop without
kinking,
doubling,or
twisting
upon itself.
The twist is
such that
the yarn will
untwist and
retwist on
itself,often
snarling or
kinking.
How to acquire tightly twisted yarn which need much more twist to
show special appearance?
Other Properties
durability
tensile strength
abrasion resistance
construction
fiber content
The maximum tensile stress required to rupture a
fiber,expressed as pounds per square inch or
grams per square centimeter
tenacity
What factors will affect the abrasion resistance of yarn?
tensile strength
abrasion resistance
Which one has higher strength,the fibers in parallel or
without align? Why?
hich one has higher strength,made from long fibers or
made from short fibers? Why?
twist
ply
strength
abrasion resistance
How does the twist affect the abrasion resistance of the yarn?strength of the yarn?
fiber cohesion yarn strength
st
ren
gt
h
tpi
optimum twist
Why the fine-count ply yarns are being used in place of
single yarns when weaving machines operating at
increasingly higher speeds?
ith same total diameter,which one has higher strength?
Single yarn or ply-yarn? Why?
evenness
Control of evenness is an important component of
yarn quality control.
even
If the diameter of a yarn is constant throughout its
length,the yarn is perfectly even.
In some cases unevenness is desirable.
warp fibers
blending fibers
desirable properties undesirable propertiesbalance
intimate blend combining plies
Control of blending is necessary to correctly balance
fiber properties and to ensure accurate labeling of
fiber content.
bl
en
di
ng
Study Questions
1,What is meant by the terms direct and
indirect yarn numbering systems?
2,What is the relationship between yarn
twist and torque?
3,What is the relationship between yarn
twist and yarn strength?
4,Which would you expect to be the
stronger yarn,a 60/3 or a 40/1? Explain
your answer.
Activities
Collect some yarn samples to show varying
levels of twist and size.
sewing thread
rope
twine
20ply 3ply
singles yarn
cable
hawser
rope
