Chapter 8
General Finishing
Lecturer,Prof,Dr,Yan kelu
Chapter 8
General Finishing
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Mechanical Finishing
? 8.2.1 Stentering
? Hot air stenter (hot air jig tenter) (pin clip)
8.2.2 Calendering
Calendering is a purely mechanical process
although chemicals may be used to enhance and
make durable the results obtained by calendering,
Calenders consist of a series of from three to
eleven heavy rollers turning against each other,
Alternate rolls are made of polished chilled steel,
brass,cast iron,etc,and may be solid or with a
hollow core and may be covered with cotton,pith,
paper,linen or husk.
8.2.2.1 Rolling calender or
swissing
On a simple rolling calender the fabric passes
around the bottom roll and through the nip,
around the next roll and so on to the last nip,
This treatment serves to give a final
smoothness to the cloth and make it less
porous and open,
8.2.2.2 Chasing(叠层轧光 )
? On the chasing calender the cloth passes
through the calender in the same manner as
in the rolling calender and is then fed back
through the rolls a second time so that two
layers of fabric pass through the nips at the
same time,The finish obtained on a chasing
calender is softer but fuller and with less of
a sheen than with a rolling calender.
8.2.2.3 Friction Calendering
? In this type of calendering a friction due to a
difference in speed of the cloth and the rolls is the
most important factor in the finish obtained,In the
friction calender the cloth passes through at a slower
speed than the third roll which is a polished chilled
steel roll,The cloth passes through the calender at
the speed of the two lower rolls and the driven
polished roll revolves on the cloth at a higher speed
and polishes it.
This gives a highly glazed surface and closes
the interstices in the goods to give a smooth
finish,If the third roll is run hot a high glaze
is obtained,If resins are used the glaze
produced will be relatively permanent.
8.2.2.4 Shreinering（电光）
The shreiner calender has a series of fine striations or
lines engraved on it,generally about 250 to the inch,
These lines are engraved at an angle with the
construction of the cloth,The shreiner calender gives
a very high but deep seated luster to the cloth,The
effect emphasized luster as apposed to the glaze which
is obtained with a friction calender,On goods which
have been shreiner calendered it is possible to see the
embossed lines in the fabric under a pick glass.
8.2.2.5 Embossing（轧纹）
The embossing calender is similar to a friction
calender except that the top roll is engraved with a
pattern and turns at the same speed as the bottom
rolls,Before running cloth through an embossing
calender the soft roll adjacent to the engraved roll is
dampened until the pattern of the engraved roll is
impressed into the soft roll,After the impression on
the soft roll is sufficiently deep the calender is run
until the soft roll is thoroughly dry,Cloth is then run
through the calender and the engraved pattern is
embossed onto the cloth.
8.2.3 Laser Finishing
8.2.4 Air or Mechanical Vibrancy
8.2.5 Raising & Sanding
8.3 Chemical treatment
? 8.3.1 Softening Treatment
? Softeners are most commonly used as an aide in
producing a desired hand or feel to an end use item,
They must be chosen carefully,however,because
unintentionally,they may create undesirable side
effects such as color bleed,print wicking,yellowing,
chlorine retention,nitrous oxide or ozone fadeing or
crocking,Their use improves end-use performance
characteristics and extends the life of the textile so
treated.
Basic chemical composition
? The beginning of textile softening,emulsion
of mineral oil and/or saponifiable fats or tri-
? glycerides were used.
? The most simple method of classification of
softening agents is by listing them
according to the electrical or ionic charge
they form in solution.
A,Anionic structures
? Anionic softeners are the oldest of all materials
used to modify the stiffness or harshness of textiles,
They were first based on natural oils,fats,and
waxes,but now include many products derived
from synthesized fatty materials such as
sulfate,sulfonate,sulfated fatty ester,etc.
? Finishing agents made from anionic materials
provide a soft pliable hand but are not durable,
Being water soluble,they are easily removed.
B,Nonionic Structures
? Nonionic softeners have the advantage over
anionic and cationic softeners in that they are
compatioble with either of the other two
classes of softener as well as other textile
finishing agents,Nonionics are sable to hart
water,salt,and alkaline earth metals.
? The nonionic softeners are more durable than
anionics,but still not as durable as cationics.
C,Cationic Structures
Naturally occurring fibers such as cotton or wool posses
anionic characteristics and are therefore capable to attracting
cationically charged particles,This attraction is called
“substantivity” and provides the mechanism for unilizing
cationic softeners in textile processing.
Cationic softeners are sensitive to anionic compounds and can
form sticky precipitates when exposed to them,Many cationic
softeners affect,white” and yellow them,They can also affect
the light fastness of certain dyes,Most cationic softeners
exhibit a certain degree of water repellency and of antistatic
protection,
D,Amphoterics
? This class of softener carriers both a,negative” and
a,positive” charge,In acidic solution,these
softeners behave as if they were cationic because of
the reaction of the donor proton with the unshared
electron pair,In alkaline mediums,an amine
carboxylate salt is formed,
? Amphoterics softeners have never gained much
acceptance as a class and are rarely sold as a pure
form but in blends with other materials,
E,Permanent Softeners
? They should be able to be chemically bound
directly to the cellulose/synthetic blend which
will insure permanence.(see also p,293)
F,Silicone Softener Types
? They are used to produce an end use
performance and quality that can not be obtained
with conventional fatty acid softeners.
? The specific silicone emulsion chosen for use,
however,must be selected with care,A wrong
choice may unintentionally create such
undesirable side effects as color bleed,yellowing,
fading and reactions with oxides of nitrogen or
ozone,By careful selection,the silicone systems
can achieve the unique effect.
Processing
? Impregnation process with impregnator
impregnated fabric drying curing
concentration,temperature,time
? Exhaustion process
8.3.2 Stiffening
? 硬挺整理是丛土豆淀粉和陶土（白泥）为基
础的。大多适用于多扎 疏松的织物。对其进
行填充和封闭。
? 耐水洗的手感整理剂以及水洗稳定性而分为
两大类：
? a）耐 400C 清洗；
? b）耐煮洗（ 950C ）；
? a类整理剂有：
Handle Measurement
? FAST-system
? KES-System
General Finishing
Lecturer,Prof,Dr,Yan kelu
Chapter 8
General Finishing
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Mechanical Finishing
? 8.2.1 Stentering
? Hot air stenter (hot air jig tenter) (pin clip)
8.2.2 Calendering
Calendering is a purely mechanical process
although chemicals may be used to enhance and
make durable the results obtained by calendering,
Calenders consist of a series of from three to
eleven heavy rollers turning against each other,
Alternate rolls are made of polished chilled steel,
brass,cast iron,etc,and may be solid or with a
hollow core and may be covered with cotton,pith,
paper,linen or husk.
8.2.2.1 Rolling calender or
swissing
On a simple rolling calender the fabric passes
around the bottom roll and through the nip,
around the next roll and so on to the last nip,
This treatment serves to give a final
smoothness to the cloth and make it less
porous and open,
8.2.2.2 Chasing(叠层轧光 )
? On the chasing calender the cloth passes
through the calender in the same manner as
in the rolling calender and is then fed back
through the rolls a second time so that two
layers of fabric pass through the nips at the
same time,The finish obtained on a chasing
calender is softer but fuller and with less of
a sheen than with a rolling calender.
8.2.2.3 Friction Calendering
? In this type of calendering a friction due to a
difference in speed of the cloth and the rolls is the
most important factor in the finish obtained,In the
friction calender the cloth passes through at a slower
speed than the third roll which is a polished chilled
steel roll,The cloth passes through the calender at
the speed of the two lower rolls and the driven
polished roll revolves on the cloth at a higher speed
and polishes it.
This gives a highly glazed surface and closes
the interstices in the goods to give a smooth
finish,If the third roll is run hot a high glaze
is obtained,If resins are used the glaze
produced will be relatively permanent.
8.2.2.4 Shreinering（电光）
The shreiner calender has a series of fine striations or
lines engraved on it,generally about 250 to the inch,
These lines are engraved at an angle with the
construction of the cloth,The shreiner calender gives
a very high but deep seated luster to the cloth,The
effect emphasized luster as apposed to the glaze which
is obtained with a friction calender,On goods which
have been shreiner calendered it is possible to see the
embossed lines in the fabric under a pick glass.
8.2.2.5 Embossing（轧纹）
The embossing calender is similar to a friction
calender except that the top roll is engraved with a
pattern and turns at the same speed as the bottom
rolls,Before running cloth through an embossing
calender the soft roll adjacent to the engraved roll is
dampened until the pattern of the engraved roll is
impressed into the soft roll,After the impression on
the soft roll is sufficiently deep the calender is run
until the soft roll is thoroughly dry,Cloth is then run
through the calender and the engraved pattern is
embossed onto the cloth.
8.2.3 Laser Finishing
8.2.4 Air or Mechanical Vibrancy
8.2.5 Raising & Sanding
8.3 Chemical treatment
? 8.3.1 Softening Treatment
? Softeners are most commonly used as an aide in
producing a desired hand or feel to an end use item,
They must be chosen carefully,however,because
unintentionally,they may create undesirable side
effects such as color bleed,print wicking,yellowing,
chlorine retention,nitrous oxide or ozone fadeing or
crocking,Their use improves end-use performance
characteristics and extends the life of the textile so
treated.
Basic chemical composition
? The beginning of textile softening,emulsion
of mineral oil and/or saponifiable fats or tri-
? glycerides were used.
? The most simple method of classification of
softening agents is by listing them
according to the electrical or ionic charge
they form in solution.
A,Anionic structures
? Anionic softeners are the oldest of all materials
used to modify the stiffness or harshness of textiles,
They were first based on natural oils,fats,and
waxes,but now include many products derived
from synthesized fatty materials such as
sulfate,sulfonate,sulfated fatty ester,etc.
? Finishing agents made from anionic materials
provide a soft pliable hand but are not durable,
Being water soluble,they are easily removed.
B,Nonionic Structures
? Nonionic softeners have the advantage over
anionic and cationic softeners in that they are
compatioble with either of the other two
classes of softener as well as other textile
finishing agents,Nonionics are sable to hart
water,salt,and alkaline earth metals.
? The nonionic softeners are more durable than
anionics,but still not as durable as cationics.
C,Cationic Structures
Naturally occurring fibers such as cotton or wool posses
anionic characteristics and are therefore capable to attracting
cationically charged particles,This attraction is called
“substantivity” and provides the mechanism for unilizing
cationic softeners in textile processing.
Cationic softeners are sensitive to anionic compounds and can
form sticky precipitates when exposed to them,Many cationic
softeners affect,white” and yellow them,They can also affect
the light fastness of certain dyes,Most cationic softeners
exhibit a certain degree of water repellency and of antistatic
protection,
D,Amphoterics
? This class of softener carriers both a,negative” and
a,positive” charge,In acidic solution,these
softeners behave as if they were cationic because of
the reaction of the donor proton with the unshared
electron pair,In alkaline mediums,an amine
carboxylate salt is formed,
? Amphoterics softeners have never gained much
acceptance as a class and are rarely sold as a pure
form but in blends with other materials,
E,Permanent Softeners
? They should be able to be chemically bound
directly to the cellulose/synthetic blend which
will insure permanence.(see also p,293)
F,Silicone Softener Types
? They are used to produce an end use
performance and quality that can not be obtained
with conventional fatty acid softeners.
? The specific silicone emulsion chosen for use,
however,must be selected with care,A wrong
choice may unintentionally create such
undesirable side effects as color bleed,yellowing,
fading and reactions with oxides of nitrogen or
ozone,By careful selection,the silicone systems
can achieve the unique effect.
Processing
? Impregnation process with impregnator
impregnated fabric drying curing
concentration,temperature,time
? Exhaustion process
8.3.2 Stiffening
? 硬挺整理是丛土豆淀粉和陶土（白泥）为基
础的。大多适用于多扎 疏松的织物。对其进
行填充和封闭。
? 耐水洗的手感整理剂以及水洗稳定性而分为
两大类：
? a）耐 400C 清洗；
? b）耐煮洗（ 950C ）；
? a类整理剂有：
Handle Measurement
? FAST-system
? KES-System
